When you own a motorcycle for a very long time (read 9+ years), you tend to personalise it a bit. In the case of my Himalayan, as many of this blog’s posts will prove, I made changes almost every summer. After accessorising the bike to the gills- with auxiliary lights, crash guards, top box, tank side mounted luggage, hard panniers etc, I ended up stripping it down and settled on the lightest avatar of the bike for the last two years of ownership. Over time, it’s dawned on me, I’ve been happiest and most content with lightweight versions of all the motorcycles I’ve owned.
The Himalayan in its touring avatar
When I purchased the Moto Morini X-Cape 650, I was perhaps blind to this particular aspect of my motorcycle ownership. To my mind, the Italian Adv was already cumbersome at 215 kgs, and I was concerned about tipping it over. On went the assortment of crash guards, including hefty side bars to the fairing. Even though I found these in poor taste, I justified putting these on as a mount for auxiliary lights, and for the rare instance when these would save the fairing from impact. I told myself I needed auxiliary lights to ride in pitch dark (or in rain). A well crafted (read heavy) aluminium top box was of-course essential, to accommodate my laptop bag and other knick-knacks on daily commutes. Now this top box, sat on a fairly robust rear rack with a solid steel plate under-mount. Some flawed logic informed me that heavy adventure motorcycles are well balanced by design to carry top boxes and large aluminium panniers- I should not feel the drag like I used to on the Himalayan.
The touring ready X-Cape with extra guards, aux lights, top box etc.
More than 6 months of using the bike in this format, has me convinced otherwise. As the first year of ownership rolled by, I took stock of how comfortable I was, handling the bike. I realised, I’ve just been a tad hasty in my ‘speccing up’ the bike to make it ‘tour ready’. Mind you, I haven’t been on any tours yet. I have been on day rides which included short off road sections-where the bike hasn’t inspired a lot of confidence. I reckon the ‘don’t drop the new bike’ anxiety prevails- in-spite of all the extra protection with crash bars, engine guards and the like, I am still hesitant and super careful, even on the lightest trails. All of this added weight, suddenly didn’t make sense. One day, on a whim, I started removing these accessories one by one. I never put them on a scale, but am fairly certain I removed around 15kgs from the machine!
The XCape 650 in its simple avatar. No heavy top box, clean rear three quarters
Familiarity with the motorcycle should mean I can slowly up-skill my riding and start using the bike to its full potential. One week of rides sans the upper crash bars, aux lights, top box and the rear mount transformed the way the bike handled, and the way it made me feel. I’ve retained what I’d call the real essentials for crash protection-a compact OEM engine guard with sliders, aftermarket hand guards with aluminium bars, stock rear rack and the sump guard. I will look at ways to reduce more, but for now, I’m loving the newfound sense of comfort, agility and lightness.
For short rides, the Givi tank bag is excellent. Longer tours will have to make do with compact soft luggage.
One year on, the Moto Morini XCape 650 remains my only motorcycle. Until a month or two ago, there was the more accessible, lighter and puppy dog friendly Himalayan for school runs or neighbourhood errands. There wasn’t any need to take the bulky Italian Adv to the bazaar. The Himmy’s been sold now however, and it’s only recently that I’ve started fully immersing myself in the Moto Morini X-perience! 😀
Getting X-Perienced on the Moto Morini!I wouldn’t call the XCape an everyday motorcycle, unless your commute involves roads like these!
I’ve listed here, some essential accessories which I added over the course of the year to make the motorcycle comfortable, accessible and more user friendly.
A good quality Aluminium top box (Hexa GT)
Hand Guards (Aftermarket)
Touring Screen (OEM)
Radiator Guard (Givi)
Tank Ring for Givi tank lock bags
Phone Mount (RAM/ Peak Design)
Side Stand Extender (Ducabike)
Auxiliary Lights (MadDog Scout)
Engine and Fairing Guard (OEM)
Engine Heat Shield (OEM)
While this isn’t a very big list, these accessories took time to come by, with the Italian stuff (Givi, Ducabike) taking months to get delivered. The delay was primarily due to the ‘make on order’ nature of the parts as these are not fast moving products. This gave me an idea about the rarity of this bike across markets- something one must consider, if you wish to own one.
With the ever popular Himmy 450- the XCape still needs to work its way into the global market. The touring screen adds to the big bike feel. Extremely good wind protection on the highway. The heat shield really works in gnarly Bangalore traffic!
How’s life with it, you may ask. I’d say ‘It’s alright’. This one ticks all the boxes. So far so good. No major issues. Some days of heavenly twin cylinder magic. Have not really felt any need to do any performance mods- filters, exhausts, ECU remaps and the like. I wouldn’t call the engine sweet- it’s a bit guttural, but smooth. It does the job.
What’s to watch out for in the everyday, you may ask. ‘Well everything’, I’ll say. For starters, it’s a heavy bike, which reveals itself in crawling, bumper to bumper traffic on our infamous ORR. Learn not to tip it over, else you’ll be handling roundabout 230kgs of dead weight, amongst unforgiving commuters.
The XCape manages to hold its own in the company of its larger cousins.
I’m super conscious of now parking the bike the right way- by reversing into the parking bay, especially by the side of the road. Not only does it give me greater visibility, it ensures I don’t struggle with the road camber while pulling out.
When does it shine then, you may ask- does it ever bring a smile to yer lips? Oh mostly every time, I’ll say. In any ride, there’s oodles of comfort, with the excellent suspension taking everything you throw at it. The clear screen and display is a joy to behold. The robust build quality of most parts is reassuring. And while throttle response is smooth and linear on the whole , once in a while, if you need to hustle, it won’t disappoint!
Standing with a Ninja 650, somewhere in TN. The engines are similar, with the Morini’s detuned to make better low end torque.
Should I buy it then, you may ask. Aye, but be well informed. Get yourself a sorted service centre first. Check out the accessories you may want to install and ensure they are available. And decide if you are comfortable owning what may be the first and last of its breed (I hear the XCape 700 is out, whether it makes it to India, is another story). And while you’re at it- get fitter, this ain’t no lightweight scrambler.
The Morini will happily take you to the end of the trail, to spots like these.
This weekend, I have finally let my beloved Royal Enfield Himalayan go. While it was not an easy decision, for once it wasn’t so much driven in the interest of economy.
The Himmy on its way out from my parking lot for the last time
I may have found a good owner for it, as time will tell. The decision to put the bike up for sale was a slow one. I was finding days to devote to motorcycling, few and far between, what with work and home commitments taking centre stage.
Essential Highway Companion
As I got more comfortable with the bulk, comfort and performance of the Morini, the Himalayan was getting sidelined as a choice of motorcycle on weekend rides. Moreover, a punishing commute to the busiest part of town, hampered by construction of the new Metro transit system, discouraged the use of either motorcycle for full week commutes.
To have two able horses in the stable and not use them effectively, is criminal. Hence decision to let go.
I’ll sorely miss the Himalayan but will fondly remember times spent with it.
This also marks the end to my considerably long association (13 years) with Royal Enfield, first while owning a Royal Enfield Bullet Classic 500 and then the Himalayan. I may not be done completely with RE though– some promising new launches on the next two years may prompt me to empty my pockets once more! 😀
The MotoMorini XCape 650 and yours truly.The XCape is built to savour tarmac like this at all manner of speeds!
My foray into the middleweight adventure biking segment has been fraught with indecisive reflection. Every time a motorcycle caught my fancy, I would beeline to the showroom and take a test ride. Each one would fail to tick one box or the other. I realised that no single motorcycle would be absolutely perfect, but the near perfect choices, like the BMW GS 850 or the Triumph Tiger 850, were too dear a price to pay, and not very suited for everyday use in our traffic conditions.
Early on this year, to put a rest to this indecisive streak, I parked my money on the newly launched Honda NX500, a fairly capable machine that would have been excellent for everyday commuting or long haul touring. Alas, when the bike was due for delivery, Honda pulled off the stock from the country, with no certainty on future stock. This was extremely frustrating for buyers and quite typical of the manufacturer. I guess they are happy selling scooters in what’s probably one of their largest markets. Must make financial sense somewhere in their upper echelons in Minato!
While quite impressed with the Royal Enfield 650 twins, I never really saw them as a step up from the Himalayan. Now with the Honda out of the way, I started seriously considering buying a Continental GT, with the intent to continue keeping the Himmy for off-road use and touring when needed. I would have put this plan into action, had a tiny article on one corner of a motorcycle website not caught my eye. The tiny article claimed that Moto Morini, the resurrected Italian marque, had slashed prices for their flagship Adventure motorcycle, the XCape 650.
I swear I’d never heard of the brand before. But one look at the motorcycle immediately got me interested to dive deeper. The bike is just stunning to look at, no questions asked.
Deep dive and it gets revealed this is a long lived Italian brand which was established in 1937, and produced some interesting and powerful motorcycles through to the late 2010s. In the last three decades it changed ownership from Italian to the American owners of Cagiva and Ducati and finally the Chinese owners of Benelli and Keeway. I then scour the internet for reviews and fail to find any real negative feedback. All long term users are pretty thrilled with the motorcycle. It’s a good, value for money, no nonsense all rounder that comes with Marzocchi and KYB fully adjustable suspension, Brembo brakes and Pirelli Scorpion Rally STR tyres. That’s a lot of top end, high quality Italian hardware which I quite like the sound of, thank you very much.
It’s a windy day on Nice Road on the outskirts of Bengaluru, as I head out for a breakfast ride on my newly acquired XCape 650, in the company of friends. I’m cruising at around 60kph, taking it easy, unsure about how the bike will perform today, it’s first time on the highway. All of the indecision, all of the waiting, comes down to this moment. I gun the throttle as the road opens up. At running in, I’m supposed to top out in the 5500rpm whereabouts. The rev counter climbs slowly past 3000 rpm. I slot into 5th gear. I can hear a burble coming on. The bike has a super linear power band- it doesn’t like to hustle. I’m fine with that. What happens next surprises me. As I slot into 6th around 3200 rpm, I feel a strong midrange coming on. The burble has turned into a roar. 4000 rpm. The bike crosses 100kph. 5000 rpm. The bike crosses 120kph. Dare I push it to the running in limit? Not yet. There’s a lot of give to the throttle yet. I’m delirious. I wonder what 9000rpm will feel like. This here is a beautiful motorcycle.
I catch movement in the air above. A large graceful peacock sails by overhead, gliding down towards the Bannerghatta Forest Reserve, on the left. It’s a rare and beautiful sight to see this bird in the air. For me it’s a moment of epiphany! Here I am, saddled into my new Moto Morini, and a Mor (peacock) passes by in what I infer as divine acknowledgment. (Morni/ Morini is a Hindi term for the female peacock (peahen)). Wow, I say to myself.
At Sabbanahalli lake outside Bangalore
I’ve done a 1000 kms on the bike now. Here’s first impressions after a couple of highway rides and a good amount of 40km round commutes. If you are in search of a decent middleweight, I’d recommend this bike basis these differentiators that make it stand apart from the competition.
1. Design
The standout feature of the bike is its design. There’s nothing quite like this in the market. It’s edgy and graceful at the same time. The red and white colourways are striking to say the least! The grey is more muted, but holds its own when not in the company of the other two.
2. Tech Features
The bike has a well designed cockpit and a pretty decent screen with good information readout. Ride modes are limited to road and off road, with no electronic settings to either engine or suspension. The off road mode enables one to switch off the ABS. An app enabled feature allows Bluetooth connectivity for navigation, music and phone calls. Tyre pressure monitoring is standard. I haven’t explored all screen modes yet (there are some more), but all in all, feels like a well thought through package.
There are some very practical adjustments provided for the clutch and brake lever (distance to bars/ play), clutch cable pull, handlebar and windshield positions. The front inverted fork Marzocchi suspension and the rear KYB is fully adjustable for preload, rebound and compression.
3. Ergonomics and Comfort
The long travel adjustable front and rear suspension, firm seat, wide bars and an ‘in the bike’ seating position are the highlights of what I would call near perfect ergonomics. Standing ergonomics are very good too. Vertically challenged riders could opt for the lower 810mm high seat, if uncomfortable, as this is a tall motorcycle.
4. The Weight
213kgs of dry weight. This is no light adv. However, it’s the way the weight is balanced that is an absolute delight. You don’t feel it at all when riding. Parking the bike and moving it around with the motor off, takes some getting used to, but is manageable. I haven’t really tried handling it on trails, so that’s a discovery waiting to happen.
5. The Engine
The 649 cc twin cylinder ER6N based design is built by CF Moto. The engine has a peak torque of 54NM at 7000 rpm and peak power of 60bhp at around 8250 rpm. The state of tune makes this bike extremely likeable and friendly in the city. I’ll be able to talk more about its highway capabilities in a few months time. However, whatever I’ve experienced so far, guarantees this to be an unstressed engine, built for munching miles. The engine heats up to manageable levels in very congested traffic. Now with a thousand kms in, the heat is much less noticeable.
6. The Ride
Right, this is what it all comes down to. This is where I feel, the bike shines. This is an incredibly friendly bike. The power is very linear, to the extent that experienced riders may call it lazy. This suits me fine though, as after eight years on 411 Himmy, my riding style is less ambitious when it comes to throttle action. All that matters is that the punch is available when required. And loads of it. The bike outclasses many others in its price range when it comes to the ride quality, handling and braking. In the city, the bike is flickable. It took me a day or two to realise that while this is a big bike, it’s also a tall and quite slim bike. The overall width of the fairing is not more than some scooters or the KTM Adv390. This makes filtering through gaps in traffic relatively easy. None of that big bike clumsiness.
Gear shifts are an interesting thing. Slot into first gear, and it does so with a resounding clunk. So much so you wonder if it’s going to fall apart. I have noticed other two wheeler riders staring at me when hearing this clunk as traffic starts moving! From then on though you hardly feel the gears. Shifts are super smooth.
I’ve had limited experience on a section of fast twisties, and this machine was a hoot on them. The Pirelli Scorpion tyres are grippier than ever. The Brembo brakes are absolutely spot on. The body balance is very well defined with the bike never feeling top heavy. My only gripe at the moment is that I’m riding the bike with the optional touring handle bar which comes stock on the XCape 650 sold in India. The flat and more aggressive handlebar which is available on the XCape 650X model, would be the right tool to exploit this bike to its full potential. Hope to get that installed soon!
7. Service and Support
Come decision making time, the key factor which I looked at was the spares and service support available in the city and elsewhere. I found a good dealer on Richmond Road, where both the sales and Service team were extremely patient and helpful in answering all my questions and clearing my doubts. The elephant in the room, of course was quickly dealt with. I say this without an intent to start any debates, let’s face it. Something of Everything, is made in China. The bike is completely designed in Italy, as is evident. Assembly is in Italy and China. The Indian enterprise, Aadishwar Auto, has a ground up assembly plant in Hyderabad. This means that all inspections, pre assembly to pre delivery happens in India. The engine oil specifications and service intervals are changed to suit Indian riding conditions. Other brands like Benelli and Keeway (from Hungary) which have been brought into India by the same group have had moderate success, but are firmly established for the last ten years. All of this was extremely assuring. As I write this, I’m done with the first service and have faced no major niggles.
In the cockpit. This is a tall bike. It’s also a slim bike. A boon in the cityIn the company of its Italian cousins. The grey colour looks better at night.
The bike does have some teething issues. There are sensors all over, some of which are over sensitive to moisture. Most of these are quick fixes at the service centre. Videos on You Tube claim the windshield to be an easy adjust. It isn’t.
One thing that I’m unsure of at this time are the lights. It may be a beam adjustment issue, which I need to check, but if isn’t, then it’s a case of the lights being ‘good from far, far from good’. What I mean is the bike looks terrific coming up in your rear view mirror, courtesy the sleek DRLs and powerful high beam. However come night time, the same high (and low) beams are a complete washout. This is worse if you are riding in the rain at night. I had to make my way through traffic relying solely on the headlights of other vehicles! This is one to check and confirm on.
The screen takes an enormous amount of time to start up, thereby delaying your finger itching to press ignition. I’m told this is something I’ll have to live with. Well this means you ought to always have a head start when you are on group rides. 😊
But like I said at the beginning, my years of waiting and trying out bikes proved to me that there’s no perfect motorcycle. The perfect motorcycle is the one you are riding at the moment. I’ll think of the XCape 650 as this in the moment bike. It’s certainly not spoiling the moment! Here’s for more to come!
8 years on, the Himalayan still shines on commutes, trails or tours- take your pick.
On June 16th, 2024, my Himalayan 411, BS3, turned eight years old, standing tall and silent in its meagre parking lot. To celebrate, I took it out for a wash and some TLC while I mused upon the time we’ve spent together. With around 40000 kms on the odometer, and miles of happy, incredible memories, the humble Himalayan has earned a special place in my heart. It’s the longest I’ve ever owned one motorcycle, and I can’t seem to see this ownership coming to an end anytime soon.
This year though, I had also pledged to buy my next middleweight adventure motorcycle, something that I’ve been dreaming and raving about for years. My friends would say, I’ve got a handy list of options but I take forever to decide, and that’s true to an extent. The fact of the matter, is my realisation that the little Himmy has set a high benchmark for the motorcycle that would fill its shoes. In its recent lightweight avatar, with a beautifully maintained, single cylinder, long stroke motor offering loads of grunt and character, excellent ergonomics, and an extremely friendly ride, the Himmy is hard to beat.
It will happily take on a slow, gnarly trail or a full fledged cross country tour with equal abandon. Moreover, it’s one of the simplest motorcycles to own and work on if you have a DIY frame of mind. Eight years of tinkering and perfecting things on the bike, have led to creating what I believe is the quintessential motorcycle. To quote Siddharth Lal, the CEO of Royal Enfield, when he launched the Himalayan, “the only motorcycle you will ever need!”
Lightweight, fast and nimble. In my opinion, this is how Royal Enfield ought to have made this bike.I now deliberately don’t carry hard luggage. Been there, done that. When it comes to weight, reduce, reduce, reduce!
But needs be must, and aspirations be calmed. As I get older, I crave that meaty twin cylinder character. I crave all day comfort and the assurance of tubeless tyres. On the very same day, to ensure this year did not slip by, I went ahead and booked myself a new motorcycle. How this beautiful stallion stacks up against my ageing work horse, remains to be seen. Will it replace the Himmy eventually? I shudder to think of the day. How do you let go such an essential, long time companion? I’ve compartmentalised that question for some time now, until lack of parking space or maintenance expenses for two motorcycles become too much to bear. Until then, will keep scrambling up that hill. Bring it on!
A slow dance through the bends as we navigate this section of the Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary, in Kerala, leading to the Kabini reservoir and wildlife reserve, in Karnataka. The traffic was minimal, the twisties unending, and we went carving through the jungle. Enroute we spotted barking deer, monkeys and the occasional peacock.
Parked for a breather
This was our second run through Wayanad, after 2017. You can read about the earlier ride here.
We took on this one as a three day ride in February this year, with our company’s offsite and a very pleasant stay at the newly opened Taj Wayanad thrown into the mix. Had the ride not been for our official event, it would have been the perfect recipe for an awesome motorcycle holiday- stay at breathtaking luxury resorts, take slow rides through the beautiful living culture that is Kerala, gorge on sumptuous food and drink and enjoy the all encompassing green scenery.
You’ve heard this before, but life does take its own slow pace in rural Kerala. And it has moments of beauty where time stands still. As we ride through village after village, we see homes with large verandahs, shaded from the morning sun. The menfolk use this space as their daily hangout, reading the morning newspaper, sipping on chai, catching up on gossip with the neighbours and watching the world go by. You can’t rush through scenes like this, and the ride is best enjoyed at the gentle pace that makes you appreciate the culture and character of the place.
Wayanad is the quintessential lazy motorcyclist’s paradise, with winding roads that snake through tea estates, banana plantations and an otherwise endless sea of green. If you are planning on visiting, keep a few days in store- there’s lots of lovely routes in the district which need to be savoured, one day at a time.
Quaint cafes like this one with a greenhouse, add to the charm of Wayanad. This was the perfect chai stop.Rivers in Wayanad are pictures of idyll.The stunning Taj property overlooks the Banasura Sagar lakeThe scenic setting of the property qualifies it as one of the most beautiful resorts in India.You are never too far from Chai in Wayanad……or pretty, age worn houses by the wayside. Western Ghats loom beyond the Banasura Sagar reservoir.By one of the tea estates.Somewhere in God’s Own Country.
A detour on our way home, to one of my favourite places in Karnataka, the enchanting Kabini reservoir and wildlife reserve was rewarding as ever.
Can’t wait to return to this gorgeous motorcycling country at the next opportunity.
The Himmy, short of its 8th birthday, poses at Kabini.Our rides at the Kabini Reservoir
As we herald the riding season in 2024. thought I’d talk about some YouTube channels that kept me interested, entertained and up to date with the latest in motorcycling, through 2023.
Starting off from my own town, Bosky and his merry comrades give mature, genuine advice on all aspects of motorcycling, including motorcycle safety. Bosky, who is also the proprietor for Big Bear Customs and one of the largest Royal Enfield Dealerships in the city, is an accomplished motorcyclist. This channel is a far cry from your glory seeking newbie vlogger, who seem to pop up dime a dozen these days. I love the friendly banter between Bosky and his mates, every time they take out a new bike to test and review. Watch their feeds to understand the art of unwinding, Bangalore ‘eshtyle’, while also upping your technical knowledge about two wheels.
As a Himalayan owner, I had been on the lookout for a decent feed where the rider genuinely loves and promotes the virtues of the RE Himalayan. Chennai based Ben grabbed my interest. He has really taken his 2018 Royal Enfield Himalayan to the next level. An ardent off road enthusiast, I like how he upskills himself and upgrades components on the machine in the quest for two wheeled nirvana. A big fan of the 411, he was quite vocal and disappointed about it being discontinued by RE, when they announced the 452.
If you’ve got a glass of wine and a lazy evening planned in front of the telly, tune into Stuart Fillingham. Let his soothing Yorkshire accent lull you into motorcycle happiness, as he coasts you down through beautiful English countryside, on his favourite classic motorcycles from Triumph and Royal Enfield. I love his sense of wry humour and his no nonsense responses to trigger happy folks who shoot comments without rhyme or reason. His is a garage to envy as well.
Watch one episode for the antics of Ryan and his fellow Canadians on Fort Nine, and I can guarantee you will be asking for more. Some of the reviews border on stellar. Heard about comedians in cars drinking coffee? Well here’s your comedian on a motorcycle, drinking coffee. Be entertained, laugh your guts out. But as you wind down the episode, he will leave you with meaningful insights as well.
You can’t miss out on Zack Courts and Ari Henning, well on their way to motorcycle stardom. Maybe Ewan and Charley are the only ones who are better known than this duo. Watch their crazy expeditions for cinematic motorcycling experiences. Commuting reviews on daily rider, gear reviews and many other interesting tech feeds make this channel a must follow.
Perhaps the biggest advocate of lightweight adventure motorcycles and therefore the only motorcyclist I know who has a Ktm 390, a BMW 310 GS, an REH and a Honda CRF 300 Rally in his garage, among others. He dotes on each of these for their lovable characteristics and shares insights from tours he leads across UK.
I’ve only recently started following this channel from Down Under, which looks very promising. A highlight from the the series is his rescue and resurrection of a 31 year old Africa Twin from a farm shed, which now features in all his travels. And yes, the cinematography is quite good!
Although Moto geo founder and ex racer Jamie Robinson, is a bit laid back with channel updates these days, this one is a must try. His love for the open road and adventuring, burgers and the general positive vibes that come off his motorcycle camping videos from the sunshine state, make you wish that you could immediately jump on your bike and ‘jest go for a ride!’
We’d been to a ride to Billekal Rangaswamy Betta a hill trail through a forest reserve off Kanakapura town. This is a great technical trail to test your off road skills. The trail has decent straight sections and some twisties.
Hill top parking spotTrail riding
On the way down from the hill, I misjudged both my speed and the rutted gully ahead of me. The front wheel went straight through the rut and would have carried through had it not been for a large boulder sitting squarely in the middle. I felt the wheel hit the stone and had no time to control the bike. It was a hard fall! While I got off with a badly bruised shoulder, the bike took the brunt of it.
The bike after the fall. Bent handlebar, bent tank frame, twisted headlight assembly, broken indicators, scratched windshield, broken levers…the list is long. The mirrors and headlight survived, miraculously.
Back at my friendly neighbourhood workshop, we assessed the damage. The main chassis was intact, so was the tank and headlight. The touring mirrors I had installed are quite tough and took a beating but did not crack. Irreversible damage to the handlebars, the tank frame, the headlight assembly and the pannier frame, bent out of shape on the side the bike fell, prompted some deep thinking about the bike’s future.
I was keen to save the bike and continue to keep it for good. Obviously to keep using it in its adventure tourer format meant a lot of expensive parts to be replaced. A viable alternative was to get rid of the damaged components completely and convert it to a scrambler.
The Himalayan prototype bike, circa 2015
Scrolling through scrambler build ideas on Pinterest, an image of the first spy shot of the test mule Himalayan in 2015, caught my fancy. This bike took parts off the single cylinder Continental GT 535 while testing the engine and frame. It looked more scrambler than anything else, with no indication of the adventure genes that would define the look of the Himalayan when launched next year.
I decided to pay homage to this test mule. It seemed like a good direction to take. The first order of business was the headlight mount. I had seen many folks use the headlight bracket from the Interceptor 650, on the Himalayan. This was an easy buy and fit. The instrument cluster however, needed to have a custom fabricated mount. We wanted to retain the base plate for the instrument cluster which involved some bit of tinkering with the fabrication and welding of the clamp to get the mounting angles right. This was the longest and most painstaking part of the build.
The Himmy sans the tank frame. It was a discovery for me when I realised that the headlight mount and the instrument cluster mount were two completely separate assemblies! What looks like a very rudimentary add on to the main frame is the base mount for the instrument cluster! Above that is the ignition key slot and handle lock.First attempt at the headlight assembly. Turn signal indicators and mounting brackets from the Interceptor 650. A flyscreen would be required to hide the yawning gap between the bottom of the instrument console and the headlight. This would also be a right mess of wires, if not tied down properly.
My friends at Highlander Moto, however, took lots of care to lovingly change the bike, to the look I desired. Taking time out of his busy schedule, Karthik bhai, slowly but surely brought the scrambler to life. The stock mudguard was looking too bulky on the reduced front, so I suggested we add the mudguard from the Interceptor as well. After a month and a half at the workshop, the bike returned in a new avatar.
Quick errands in the neighbourhood and a couple of commutes to the office offered tempting insights into the true nature of the bike. With a good 15 kgs removed in the frames, the bike feels light and fast. A proper highway run would give a better picture. Hope to do that soon!
Scramble tamble ready to ramble!Can’t wait to take it out on the open road!Ram Mount, touring mirrors from Royal Enfield and a Givi tank bag, complete the essential accessorieslist.Out with the crappy aftermarket LED headlamp. Back to stock retro look.Himalayan ScramblerHimmy on!Sans frame, lot more tank.
Couple of dry bags with the Givi tank bag on should suffice for weekend trips.
From autumn last year through to spring this year, I’ve been riding out on the bike every chance I can get. We’ve had a long dry spell with little or no rain. Our merry band of motorcycle mates has been great company for short escapes beyond city limits. Call it revenge motorcycling if you will- but if 2020 shocked us into submission, 2021 gave enough dire warnings lest we got too comfortable, and 2022 took all our energies to get back to normal life, then 2023 surely calls for some bravado! With this objective in mind, we’ve been stepping out eagerly, on two wheels and four. 😊
All manner of bikes. All manner of rides.
A company offsite in mid December to the coffee country of Coorg, provided a good opportunity to create a motorcycle trip for ‘official reasons’. We would save on fuel, get there faster, be environmentally friendly, etc. The office folks did not have much say in this and were readily convinced. Acceptance of the same reasons by la familia was another matter altogether. I was in the middle of elucidating the benefits of two wheels over four when my kid cut to the chase with “ Daddy, you just want any excuse to ride out don’t you?”. 😊
Cold, fog, dawn, open highway. ETA 60 min to rendezvous. Rendezvous. A foggy start to our official tour.
It’s a great feeling when you thumb the starter before dawn in your empty parking lot. After weeks of planning, anticipation and excitement, that calming sense of purpose as you roll out on the exit ramp is incredible. I think it’s one of the essential joys of motorcycle touring, to see it all come to that moment, when you start the ride. You’re sort of done with the rigours of…
All the gear? Check.
Pannier balance? Check.
Tail bag strap adjustment? Check.
Phone mount secure? Check.
Did I forget my sunglasses? Third pair of underwear? Check.
Charging cable? Check.
Did I lock the house?
Darn it, let’s just ride!
An early start and meet up with my fellow riders on the Hassan highway was interrupted by heavy fog within a few miles. Don’t know if you’ve ever experienced this, but fog + motorcycling is a bit of a no go. It’s a complete dampener (no pun intended). In less than an hour we were chilled to the bone and begging for that hot cuppa.
After some delicious dosas and piping hot filter coffee- perfect antidotes to frozen fingers- it’s all smiles. We moved off the highway to explore a short trail in an ageing forest.Dry leaves and mulch littered the landscape. But the forest was beautiful, with that mid morning sun filtering through the haze.A Scram 411, A KTM 390 Adv and my Royal Enfield Himalayan. All have adventure in their genes but are configured completely differently.
We reached Coorg around midday. An incident en route which I’d call amusing and terrifying at the same time, became the unusual highlight of my ride.
My friend on the Ktm decided to gun the throttle at the first sight of the twisties. Snaking through coffee plantations and tall silver oaks, the ghat section approaching Madikeri is a joy to ride on. While the Ktm disappeared, the two of us took on the bends at a gentle pace enjoying the scenery. As we approached town, Google maps announced a short cut to our place of stay. I heeded Google mausi and followed her advice down progressively narrowing lanes which ended in a super steep 45 degree incline leading right into the tiny courtyard of a very rudely awoken Kodava gentleman. With barely a few feet left to spare, I managed to turn the bike around just to see my friend on his Scram following right after!
Now the only way out of that courtyard was that steep 45 degree incline down which we’d just come down. I was suddenly aware that my bike was loaded with panniers and easily tipping the scales upwards of 220 kgs or so. That’s typically the weight of a large 1000 cc adventure bike. The point to note is the large adventure bike comes with a really powerful engine and truckloads of torque. It would have made short work of that incline in front of me. A meagre 32NM of torque mated to just 24 odd horses on the Himalayan suddenly made the task ahead really daunting.
I let the Scram go first. It’s a lighter bike and had lesser luggage. The rider pulled up without much hassle. My turn. A silent prayer on my lips. Engage first gear. Build up revs. Twist of the wrist. Release the brakes. The Himalayan jumps forward. So far so good.
Halfway up the incline I think I hear the engine knocking- I wring the throttle as far as it can go, my heart in my mouth…uh oh.. if I lose traction now, it’s a long long way down to the valley floor beyond the homestead. From somewhere in the depths of its heart the bike pulls out a last reserve of power and tractors up to the top. It takes agonisingly long seconds. But it gets me out. Hats off to all the brilliant engineers at RE! 🥵
It was ironic that our four day trip to Coorg involved a nice ride in on day one, three days of conferences and sessions with office folk behind closed doors and a rain soaked ride back to Bangalore on day five. But in the end it was all good.
I’m out on the same highway in the following month. This time on a Ninja 650. This is a seriously fast bike.
More rides followed in the next couple of months. I seriously considered purchasing a friend’s Ninja 650. On a ride out towards Bellur cross, I’m cruising at 150kph plus speeds on the Ninja. It’s a seriously fast bike and eager to input. The sense of speed is enormous, the feel sporty. This bike impresses with its smooth bulletproof engine. My friend’s machine is nearly nine years old but none of those years or wear and tear have affected its performance in the slightest way.
When the Ninja has smoked the horizon, and the Himalayan no longer has to play the underling in the ‘catch me if you can’ game, I take it down to its comfort ground- a dirt trail by the water. (it’s where the Ninjas dread to tread) 😊Rocky Ridge Cafe and the environs beyond are revisited with a team mate on his Interceptor 650.
I followed up on the test ride of the Ninja 650 with yet another breakfast ride to Rocky Ridge Ridge Cafe, this time with a Royal Enfield Interceptor 650 for company. To know more about how we came to discover this place read this.
The backroads leading to Rocky Ridge are a delight to ride the Interceptor on.
The beautifully surfaced back roads leading to Rocky Ridge, are full of gentle arcing curves which beg you to take them at full throttle. These roads are mostly devoid of traffic (except the odd farmer on his newly bought tractor). As I lean into one of these sweeping curves at 80kph, I realise what it is about the RE twins that the Brits are going ga ga about. You see, at these speeds, on roads like these, with gentle twisties, the 650 twin engine is an absolute gem to experience. Think of a B Road in England, lined with hedges and the hawthorns on a sweet summer day. And a happy motorcyclist wearing smiles in an open face helmet just trundles by on his Interceptor, scattering the dragonflies. It’s idyllic. That’s the notion the RE’s engine lulls you into. A gentle idyll. It promises more power on tap, but is happy to chug along sweetly at 60 to 70 mph. It’s perfect for what they call ‘lazy riding’. When you’re never short on power, but never in too much need of it.
A B Road somewhere in the UK. Perfect for enjoying an Interceptor or GT 650. Back home in Namma Bengaluru you can head out on the smaller state highways and back roads beyond city limits. For more information go here.
The perspective here is that the RE 650 Twin is not about all out performance like the Kwacker’s 650 twin. I feel, the engineers at RE had a different goal in mind. The Kawasaki is a high revving engine with more than one and half times the power output of the RE. It’s decidedly smoother at high speeds. And although it’s not bad on roads described above, it’s not so endearing at low speeds. It’s at these speeds of 80 to 120 kph that the RE 650 twin comes into its own. It’s buttery smooth gear shifts and even engine note, and promise of generous low end torque is an absolute dealbreaker. I’m sure it sustain a top whack of 160kph or so easily, but it will be way past its enjoyable nature at that speed.
Papa Himalayan Baby Himalayan face off!
Umm, is that a larger Himalayan? Heck no, it’s gorgeous! You have to tear your eyes away from this beauty. A friend of a friend who joined us on the next ride had brought the Ducati Desert X along. A few jokes ensued on the resemblance of the Himalayan to the Ducati. Did Pierre Terblanche have a hand in shaping them both? Brothers from another mother?
Add some white fairing to the Himmy, and you’d be fooled for a few seconds. But only a few. The Desert X is incredible!
Well the Ducati is striking to say the least. And an easy crowd puller. So much so, that it almost overshadowed the raja bike. The BMW GS 1200. The undisputed king of Adv motorcycles. And how.
I surge ahead as the lights turn green. The big Beemer is mightily comfortable. It’s an open highway and on this Sunday, Bangaloreans are at their motoring best. I can hear some howling super cars behind me, had spotted an Audi TT and a Porsche 911 Carerra going neck and neck a few miles back. They’ve caught up.
The tacho climbs as I rev the bike- I know it’s a matter of seconds before they pass me in a blur. The big Beemer is not ready to give up yet. I can see 156kph on the speedo and the cars have gone ahead. Flashing brake lights fill my vision ahead and I can hear squealing tyres…what’s going on here? A large speed bump. They are skirting this cautiously now. Crawling underwater as far as I’m concerned. I’ve throttled down to about 120kph but there’s no time (or space) to brake or cut speed. I’m on pegs. The Beemer squeezes between the two cars and sails over the speed bump. There’s no wobble. No lurch. Nothing. A clean landing which I almost didn’t feel. Behind me, my friend following on his Ninja 1000 observes my rear wheel in the air, and gawks as the moment passes. Later, at breakfast he recalls the moment and how he uttered something so profane, I can’t write it here. 😀
I repeat, Mightily Comfortable.
My friend takes me through a pre ride checklist as I sit on his bike. It’s more akin to a Captain and co-pilot exchanging notes and running through flight controls prior to takeoff. The BMW has electronic suspension which is activated at the touch of a button. It has multiple modes for (wait for it) turn signal indicators! There’s on the fly selectors/ toggles/ switches etc etc. I’m in a cockpit.
On the ride, we enter a small village which hosts a legendary breakfast place. In one narrow village lane, the bike stalls. At this point in time I’m expecting a dozen warning lights to pop up and completely fluster me. None of that happens. I downshift to neutral, thumb the starter, pop the clutch, drop first gear and off we go. Yup, it’s still just a lovable old motorcycle underneath it all. And May I say. Mightily Comfortable. 😃
Enroute to Sabbanahalli lake. The little Himalayan in the company of biggies.Mirror mirror on the wall. Who’s the smoothest mill of them all?
Which brings me to the Ninja. Nope this is another one. The 1000. Is it fast? Yep. But I didn’t feel it like I did on the 650. Is it smooth. Yep. But I didn’t feel it like I did on the 650. Ok. Wait what?
Yep. It’s fast. But it’s not manic. It’s mature.
Yep it’s smooth. Too much to qualify. So you don’t feel it.
Is it like a car? Far from it. You feel everything. Enough said.
In an elusive quest for the perfect bike, for his current and future needs, another colleague and friend has recently settled on a 2023 Ktm 390 Adventure. This is easily the most talked about, most versatile bike in the adventure segment in India right now.
An early morning ride out to Murugan Idly, which serves lip smacking dosas from 6:00 am. We are witnessing this strangest phenomenon. Every few miles I’m alternating between dazzling sunshine and a light fog. It’s a bit crazy. The sky when visible, is a brilliant blue. My friend has switched to sunglasses. We pause and admire this freak of nature.
The cloud bank in the distance signals another area of fog we will be crossing. But right here, we are in glorious sunshine.
While the dry spell lasts, before the summer really scorches us, we intend to ride out to the mountains. That’s something to look forward to. Riding season ain’t over yet!