A slow dance through the bends as we navigate this section of the Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary, in Kerala, leading to the Kabini reservoir and wildlife reserve, in Karnataka. The traffic was minimal, the twisties unending, and we went carving through the jungle. Enroute we spotted barking deer, monkeys and the occasional peacock.
Parked for a breather
This was our second run through Wayanad, after 2017. You can read about the earlier ride here.
We took on this one as a three day ride in February this year, with our company’s offsite and a very pleasant stay at the newly opened Taj Wayanad thrown into the mix. Had the ride not been for our official event, it would have been the perfect recipe for an awesome motorcycle holiday- stay at breathtaking luxury resorts, take slow rides through the beautiful living culture that is Kerala, gorge on sumptuous food and drink and enjoy the all encompassing green scenery.
You’ve heard this before, but life does take its own slow pace in rural Kerala. And it has moments of beauty where time stands still. As we ride through village after village, we see homes with large verandahs, shaded from the morning sun. The menfolk use this space as their daily hangout, reading the morning newspaper, sipping on chai, catching up on gossip with the neighbours and watching the world go by. You can’t rush through scenes like this, and the ride is best enjoyed at the gentle pace that makes you appreciate the culture and character of the place.
Wayanad is the quintessential lazy motorcyclist’s paradise, with winding roads that snake through tea estates, banana plantations and an otherwise endless sea of green. If you are planning on visiting, keep a few days in store- there’s lots of lovely routes in the district which need to be savoured, one day at a time.
Quaint cafes like this one with a greenhouse, add to the charm of Wayanad. This was the perfect chai stop.Rivers in Wayanad are pictures of idyll.The stunning Taj property overlooks the Banasura Sagar lakeThe scenic setting of the property qualifies it as one of the most beautiful resorts in India.You are never too far from Chai in Wayanad……or pretty, age worn houses by the wayside. Western Ghats loom beyond the Banasura Sagar reservoir.By one of the tea estates.Somewhere in God’s Own Country.
A detour on our way home, to one of my favourite places in Karnataka, the enchanting Kabini reservoir and wildlife reserve was rewarding as ever.
Can’t wait to return to this gorgeous motorcycling country at the next opportunity.
The Himmy, short of its 8th birthday, poses at Kabini.Our rides at the Kabini Reservoir
As we herald the riding season in 2024. thought I’d talk about some YouTube channels that kept me interested, entertained and up to date with the latest in motorcycling, through 2023.
Starting off from my own town, Bosky and his merry comrades give mature, genuine advice on all aspects of motorcycling, including motorcycle safety. Bosky, who is also the proprietor for Big Bear Customs and one of the largest Royal Enfield Dealerships in the city, is an accomplished motorcyclist. This channel is a far cry from your glory seeking newbie vlogger, who seem to pop up dime a dozen these days. I love the friendly banter between Bosky and his mates, every time they take out a new bike to test and review. Watch their feeds to understand the art of unwinding, Bangalore ‘eshtyle’, while also upping your technical knowledge about two wheels.
As a Himalayan owner, I had been on the lookout for a decent feed where the rider genuinely loves and promotes the virtues of the RE Himalayan. Chennai based Ben grabbed my interest. He has really taken his 2018 Royal Enfield Himalayan to the next level. An ardent off road enthusiast, I like how he upskills himself and upgrades components on the machine in the quest for two wheeled nirvana. A big fan of the 411, he was quite vocal and disappointed about it being discontinued by RE, when they announced the 452.
If you’ve got a glass of wine and a lazy evening planned in front of the telly, tune into Stuart Fillingham. Let his soothing Yorkshire accent lull you into motorcycle happiness, as he coasts you down through beautiful English countryside, on his favourite classic motorcycles from Triumph and Royal Enfield. I love his sense of wry humour and his no nonsense responses to trigger happy folks who shoot comments without rhyme or reason. His is a garage to envy as well.
Watch one episode for the antics of Ryan and his fellow Canadians on Fort Nine, and I can guarantee you will be asking for more. Some of the reviews border on stellar. Heard about comedians in cars drinking coffee? Well here’s your comedian on a motorcycle, drinking coffee. Be entertained, laugh your guts out. But as you wind down the episode, he will leave you with meaningful insights as well.
You can’t miss out on Zack Courts and Ari Henning, well on their way to motorcycle stardom. Maybe Ewan and Charley are the only ones who are better known than this duo. Watch their crazy expeditions for cinematic motorcycling experiences. Commuting reviews on daily rider, gear reviews and many other interesting tech feeds make this channel a must follow.
Perhaps the biggest advocate of lightweight adventure motorcycles and therefore the only motorcyclist I know who has a Ktm 390, a BMW 310 GS, an REH and a Honda CRF 300 Rally in his garage, among others. He dotes on each of these for their lovable characteristics and shares insights from tours he leads across UK.
I’ve only recently started following this channel from Down Under, which looks very promising. A highlight from the the series is his rescue and resurrection of a 31 year old Africa Twin from a farm shed, which now features in all his travels. And yes, the cinematography is quite good!
Although Moto geo founder and ex racer Jamie Robinson, is a bit laid back with channel updates these days, this one is a must try. His love for the open road and adventuring, burgers and the general positive vibes that come off his motorcycle camping videos from the sunshine state, make you wish that you could immediately jump on your bike and ‘jest go for a ride!’
Every once in a while, work, weather and pandemic permitting, my family likes to drive out of Bangalore, for a break in the wilds. In this post, I will talk about my family vehicle- a 2014 Renault Duster, which we’ve driven more than 50000kms over the last seven years.
On the shores of Kabini Reservoir…
At the time, I was happy with the ‘all I can afford’ base model, which seemed a significant step up from our outgoing Chevy Beat. It did not have much in terms of safety equipment and as we realised over time, was disappointingly basic on interior features. Today, it probably qualifies more as a ‘truck’ than the trailblazing off-roader that started the SUV revolution in India.
Somewhere in the Western Ghats
Still, I feel old Dusty has endearing characteristics that warrant its legendary status. It’s torquey diesel engine is pretty frugal when it comes to fuel consumption. Seven years on, the fabled ‘magic carpet’ ride quality endures. A decent mile muncher, its a pleasure to drive on the open highway. All round visibility in the vehicle is one of the best in its class. There is no raked window line, subduing occupants into car sickness. As a driver, I’m more confident piloting the Duster through narrow bylanes of Shivaji Nagar (an old neighbourhood in the city) than my wife’s little Honda hatchback. The car is a bit of a ‘carry it all’, like American station wagons of the 70’s- the boot space is surprisingly large! I’ve once transported a single bed in it, with the seats folded down, the boot half closed and a passenger beside me! The Duster is no fancy frilly, loaded to gills, gizmo flaunting Korean ‘softroader’. It’s a joy to drive off tarmac, with its 30 degree approach angle and 205mm ground clearance. It’s built tough and can take punishment. And because it handles dirt with aplomb, it WILL get you from Point A to Point B, wherever they may be.
Duster loves distance. Its great for sunsets too.
Exploring the beaten trail off Coonoor, Nilgiris.
Good for impromptu picnic drives, soaks in the wild.
Amidst tea plantations in the Blue Mountains
On a back road near Wind Hill, Karnataka
All round visibility ensures you see the end of your bonnet (and everything beyond!)
Hill climb? No Worries!
Somewhere in Tamil Nadu, enroute to Madurai
In coffee country, Coorg.
Southbound Again! Enroute to Kodaikanal
We have roamed a fair bit of the South in our beloved family ‘truck’. Its always been a trustworthy, accommodating and fun vehicle to explore the outdoors. But with diesel phasing out and electric the way to go, I’ve been thinking of what’s next for good ol’ Dusty. Some days ago, I came across some Youtube videos which certify this car as a popular camper van conversion, especially in Europe, Russia and South America. And that is giving me exciting ideas for the long run!
Jharkhand. Loosely translated, this name means ‘Land of Forests’. The state has witnessed rapid infrastructure changes in the last few years. These changes are most evident in the smooth, well laid state highways connecting the districts. Add beautiful vistas of abundant forests, gushing waterfalls, rolling hills and winding rivers that these roads lead to, and it’s difficult to ignore this region as the perfect motorcycling destination!
The state is home to some lovely tarmac
One fine Sunday morning, in late October, my cousin and brother in law decided to explore some back roads around Ranchi. The weather had been glorious for the past few weeks, with warm, sunny days and starlit, chilly nights which heralded the onset of a cold winter.
I had an unusual ride for the day, borrowed from my uncle, who has an interesting collection of motorcycles. The maxi scooter themed Aprilia SXR160 is the latest entry into India’s burgeoning two wheeler market. It looks terrific and is a promising little runabout.
This scoot is a hoot to ride!
The route to the waterfall was through an idyllic country road that skirts the main highway and passes through some lovely villages. This route is best approached from the newly built Ring Road that bypasses the city and had little or no traffic. Not wanting to get left behind in the company of a Bonneville Street Twin and a Honda CBR250R, I was able to comfortably stick to 80kph, and the Aprilia seemed to promise more. Once we turned off the Ring Road, there was no real need to hurry, and we soaked in the scenery at a gentle, rambling pace.
At the start of the forest section
Motorcyling country!
Its not the right bike but the right attitude, that matters!
The route has enough beauty spots to park your moto!
Oh glorious day!
These Sal forests were a joy to ride through
Hills and rivers aplenty!
It felt great to be outdoors on such a brilliant day, made better by the fact we were riding. The waterfall was spectacular and an absolute treat at the end of the ride. It’s a must visit, if you are ever in this neck of woods. At the parking lot to the falls, I did notice a cross-country rider from Kerala on his kitted up Himalayan. Led me to think this place was getting some traction on the motorcyling circuit after all…
Dassam Falls, so named after the ten (Das) waterfalls that merge as one.
Its a pity I only had a week off in Jharkand. This little sojourn was a glimpse of the many charming places the state has to offer. We made plans to regroup in a few months time and head out further inland. Back in NammaBengaluru, I get greeted by grey skies, pouring rain and generally gloomy weather as I step off the plane. The forecast is not friendly either, more rain to come…ah well, back to the grind!
I can imagine how frustrating the current situation might be for an avid motorcyclist. Coronavirus has affected several countries around the world and the motorcycling fraternity in many of these countries would be raring to ride out at the slightest easing of restrictions.
Out here, for a good part of three months, I did not even look at the motorcycle. I stayed home, stayed put, stayed safe. Come June, with the lockdown lifted, I did roll the bike out. It needed a battery replacement, which got done. And on 16th June, we quietly accomplished 4 years of being together through thick and thin. To celebrate the occasion, I went for a quick highway run with my cousin, who also owns a four year old BS3 Himalayan. The short ride, gave us a chance to reflect on two things-
1. How much we had missed not riding
2. We were really among the last of the breed, with our BS3 Himalayans. With the success of the EFI Himalayan in the last couple of years you don’t see many of the older ones about. I felt lucky to have this simple forerunner of a machine. And it felt great to have it running so smooth and true four years on.
Short highway run within the district to clear cobwebs from my mind. Seen here with the other BS3 Himalayan, both 4 years old.The Himalayan has evolved over the years, but stayed true to its core purpose of being an everyday, everything, anywhere use machine.
However, aside from this small outing, for most of the Lockdown, I consoled myself browsing through some of my favourite reads on the shelf.
Here’s a glance at my budding motorcycle reads collection. Would strongly recommend all three, if you haven’t had a chance to get your paws on them yet.
Looking through them brought back nice memories of my own rides and good times with the bikes I’ve owned and ridden.
Here’s hoping that the world overcomes this crisis soon, and we find ourselves back on our machines, rolling happily into the new millennium.
A few weeks ago, I finally managed to lay hands on the last item required for build ideas I had for the Himalayan. 23500 kms and 3 years, 8 months in the making, I’m very happy with the way it has turned out. Almost everything added to the bike is a genuine Royal Enfield accessory. No cheap aftermarket bits and bobs here.
Himalayan, circa 2020Himalayan, circa 2020Retro-tourer, circa 2020.
In my last post Essential Upgrades, I had talked about replacing the worn out stock seat with a Touring Seat. The Touring Seat took me more than 6 months to locate and buy. For some weird reason, Royal Enfield does not have online sales for bike accessories. And this one is a best seller that almost every dealership runs quickly out of.
For more than a year, I ran the bike without any kind of wind protection. I was glad to get rid of the fiddly stock visor which had a serious buffeting issue at high speeds. However, I still felt the need for a smaller cowl or fly screen to complete the look of the bike.
Made a quick sketch to see how a flyscreen would look.
A quick sketch on my iPad convinced me that a flyscreen might just do it. Got myself an Interceptor 650 flyscreen the next day. Had to convince my mates at Highlander, my friendly neighbourhood Moto workshop, to file and shape the mounting bracket. But other than that, it was an easy fit.
Short Flyscreen from the Interceptor 650. A high intensity LED bulb from NightEye replaces the stock bulb in the headlight.
Here’s a summary of additions to the bike at 20000kms.
Upgraded the handle-bar to the Braced Handlebar Kit (Part no. 1990206). The handlebar weighs 20% less than the stock bar, is beautifully finished, and Made in Taiwan. From Royal Enfield Brand Showroom, BTM Layout, Bangalore.
Installed Bar-End Finisher Kits (Part No.1990220) for the same handlebar. From Royal Enfield Brand Showroom, BTM Layout, Bangalore.
BMC Lifetime Filter for the Himalayan- Sourced from Big Bear Customs, St. Marks Road, Bangalore.
Brake Reservoir protector from the Continental GT (535). (Available at most Service Centres)
Metzeler Tourance Next tyres- 90/90-21 to the front, 150/70- 17 to the rear. (Orion Motors, Koramangala)
Short Flyscreen from the Royal Enfield Interceptor 650, (Royal Enfield Brand Showroom, BTM Layout)
Royal Enfield Aluminium Panniers with mounts (Royal Enfield Brand Showroom, BTM Layout)
Royal Enfield Touring Seat for the Himalayan (Royal Enfield Brand Showroom, BTM Layout)
To know about other bits of DIY which shaped the bike, and my overall ownership experience, you can catch up here. If you are a Himalayan owner and have done some fiddling yourself, do drop me a line. 😊
The bike setup feels perfect for lazy ganders through backroads like this. 😊
In my Himalayan, 15000km Update. I had talked about upgrading to a good set of tyres as the stock tyres had worn out completely. After shortlisting various on/off road tyres, including the Pirelli MT60, which does duty on Himalayans sold outside India, I decided to run with Metzeler Tourance Next. The photos below, show how the bike looks with new shoes.
Metzeler Tourance Next- 90/90 x 21″ Front Tyre- easy fit on the Himalayan.
Metzeler Tourance Next- 150/70 x 17″ rear tyre. This fitting requires a skilled mechanic as the rim width is designed to hold a 120/90 x 17″ tyre. Nevertheless, once installed correctly, the tyre is a seamless fit. I am using a Ralco 140/17 tube in the tyre.
The tyres are significantly higher grade (being Metzelers) and therefore, significantly more expensive. But they are comparable to or cheaper than, the other options I looked at. I chose these tyres after a fair bit of research, for the following reasons:
In three years of use, I have not done any serious off-roading on the Himalayan. And I realise, that while any offroad trail which comes my way, when I’m on a ride is more than welcome, I’m not much into off-roading as a sport. Which meant that I required a good set of dual sport tyres that would be ideal for commuting and touring.
I wanted road focussed tyres that could handle dirt trails. Now the stock tyres are good on dirt and okay on road. Folks who are on their second set of stock tyres are bound to disagree with me, and a month or two ago, I would have sworn by the Ceats. However, since I’ve put on the Metzelers, two things have become crystal clear- a. The road grip is amazing- I feel much more confident entering and exiting corners now, and b. braking has improved tremendously.
Off road adventure tyres with knobbly treads have very poor mileage on road. Here the Metzelers stood out, with a lot of online reviews claiming a mileage of 15000 plus miles. This was one big deciding factor.
My second investment was the all aluminium box panniers from Royal Enfield. The panniers are sturdy, lockable and waterproof, with two years warranty. Mounting and removing them is a straightforward affair, and build quality is pretty decent. They add quite a lot of character to the bike. The bike looks purposeful and adventure ready. Here again, I researched luggage systems from Shad and Hepco and Becker, both of which offered hard plastic cases, but were on the expensive side. I went in for the Royal Enfield product as it was very good value for money, robust and simple to use.
Royal Enfield Aluminium panniers on the Himalayan.
Some DIY was required to mount the number plate, but it turned out fine, I think.
Mounting and removing the panniers is a 5 minutes affair.
I’ll pop in a review soon, about these upgrades, once I’ve headed out on a long ride. In the meantime, I’ve been commuting. And the panniers are an absolute blessing. Earlier, I’d spend at least 10 to15 minutes daily, strapping my laptop bag on and taking it off the bike; now, its a 30 second affair. The panniers swallow everything. And keep stuff snug and dry. ‘Fill it, shut it, forget it’, is what I say. 🙂
Commuting, before the panniers. My laptop bag is mounted on the rear seat with the help of bungee cords. Everyday, prepping the bike took at least 10 minutes.
On Nice Road, did a dry run with the bikes ahead of our ride to Coorg. Testing the Go Pro Hero 3. Circa2013. Soundtrack: Asleep at the Wheel/ The Cinematics
Where do we go from here ‘cos all of the roads ahead are great!
Last year, I drove on a very scenic route between my hometowns of Ranchi and Jamshedpur. I marvelled at newly laid roads and natural beauty en-route -see blog post motorcyling country
I vowed to return and explore the region on a motorcycle. This Diwali break, I teamed up with my cousin and uncle, both proud owners of the Triumph Bonneville Street Twin, and went off on a fantastic spree through beautiful heartland. My uncle, who owns a veritable stable of motorcycles and cars, had a spare bike at hand- one lovingly maintained, 6 year old, Honda CBR 250R. I happily agreed to use this ride, though I had my eyes set on the Twins. 🙂 We planned to head for Patratu Valley, supposed to be a motorcyclist’s dream, with the best set of twisties this side of the country. Our circuit for the day covered about 150kms- beyond the Valley, there were some nice reservoirs and forests to be explored.
Patratu Valley, Drone Shot (Source Tripadvsior.in)
Great loop of about 150 kms through woodlands, Sal forests and reservoirs
Our choice of rides, some slower options parked in the back. 🙂
We set off at about 7:30am from my uncle’s place, with the day dawning bright and sunny. Heading out of the city we encountered light traffic and were near the start of the valley in less than an hour. The first few kilometres into the valley are all about wide sweeping curves with very gentle gradient.
A short stop to regroup, before we begin our descent into the valley
First sight of the hills, always lifts my heart. 🙂
The approach into the valley, is all about wide sweeping curves on well laid roads.
Sunlit morning, two roaring British twins, winding roads and no traffic. Motorcyling Nirvana? You bet!
At the start of the famous twisties, we stopped for a breather to take in panoramic views of woodlands and Patratu Reservoir. With this becoming the new hotspot in the state, the area gets its fair share of tourists. Luckily most of them were still waking up at this hour, and we found the generally crowded spot devoid of shutter-mongers. We did however, find a romancing couple, cat-walking on the highway, posing for cameras of a professional crew. Apparently this latest trend in pre-wedding shoots, is big business in the state.
One incredible road, leading all the way down the mountain!
Panoramic views of the reservoir from the top
Later, we made a slow descent, stopping now and then to take in incredible vistas, that unfolded, with each bend of the road.
Spot the motos!
Stopping to take in the view, along the descent.
Gabion walls retain hillsides as we begin the steeper part of the descent. The roads are an engineering marvel.
Conquered the loops-now a photo session. First the men…
…then the machines.
Hills and rivers are plentiful in ‘Jharkand’ , which loosely translated means ‘land of forests’
We had a long, leisurely breakfast at a roadside dhaba, near Patratu town. Egg bhurji, Plain rotis and aloo bhujia. A welcome change from the traditional fare of idli vada/ dosa down South. After breakfast, my cousin very generously traded his Street Twin for the CBR. I am seriously impressed with the motorcycle- but will go into detailed review in another post. We skipped the dam visit, as there was some construction activity near the entrance and a pile of tourist buses. From here the roads to and beyond Ramgarh, were a combination of two and four lanes with very good surface.
Well surfaced roads…
sans traffic…
are a delight to ride on…
and a joy to capture.
Ramgarh town is an urban horror. Riding in straight and fast from these immaculate roads, we were soon in a quagmire of honking buses, bullock carts, bicycle rickshaws, wayward pedestrians, stray cattle and everything else a busy small town in India can throw at you. The roads in town are nothing to write home about it either. The upside though, was piloting the Street Twin through this mess. The bike is so easy to ride and handle, its hard to believe its a 900cc parallel twin. Of all the larger bikes I have ridden, this felt the friendliest and most accessible. The Royal Enfield Interceptor, may hold a lot of promise on the question of accessibility, but I will ride it to believe it. Until then I’m sold on the Bonnie. 🙂
Few miles after Ramgarh, near a settlement called Gola, we stopped for a cuppa at a dhaba aspiring to be a resort. Over tea we decided to check out Getalsud Dam and Reservoir nearby. Now the dam is an okay visit at best. However the road leading to the reservoir is a gem. Cutting straight through a large swathe of Sal trees, this road is spectacular- check out the photos.
This road was pure discovery…
…and everyone wanted a piece of the action, for their Instagram and WhatsApp feeds…
…including yours truly. 🙂
Photo opportunities weren’t scarce on a road like this, on the move…
…or standing still.
Heading out of the sal forest, towards the reservoir.
At Getalsud Reservoir
A moment of calm in the Sal forest. All we needed was a tent, a fire and some beers. 🙂
Towards late noon- after a brief wander into the sal forest, we started for home. Lunch was a longer affair, complicated by the need to chase, capture, dress, cook and serve a free roaming country chicken (Or so the dhaba staff claimed). We called it a day at my uncle’s moto stable, piping hot tea in our hands, exchanging motorcycle tales, and making plans for the next ride.
yonder blue mountain... 